napoleonicfrigates

Well it was finally time to begin. The initial step in its mechanics looked relatively easy. The first objective was to get the skeleton of the kit built. This would provide all the hoped for stability and if it was badly done could result in problems with strength down the line. The pieces of wood required were the keel, the bulkheads and the plank termination patterns (splitting wood with the bulkheads on two pieces of walnut)

As can be seen some care would be needed to remove the keel and other wooden items without splintering or otherwise damaging them. A further interesting point is the difference in wood. For this model the designer has used plywood for the underlayer which is very strong but can only be used in unseen areas.

The first job was to dry fit the bulkheads to the keel to ensure they fitted correctly (and if not sand). The bulkheads themselves would also require a rough sanding to prepare a better surface for the planks to glue on. The front and rear bulkheads would also need to be bevelled  along with the plank termination patterns I would go further and bevel all the bulkheads. The easiest way to see if you have taken the correct amount is to lay a plank along a rough line where it would be planked later. It should be smooth and not bumpy nor need to be forced into place...apparently. Instantly I hit a difference of opinion in between guides. The instructions seemed to indicate you should bevel before gluing whilst all the books seemed to say you should bevel after gluing. After much deliberation I decided the instructions were attempting to say do a rough bevel before gluing and then bevel properly afterwards.

A further adjustment is that now is the ideal opportunity to strengthen your frame with filler wood, some kits (to save wood) have too few bulkheads for the purpose they are designed for - this will make the kit over weak. In this case just put extra support between the bulkheads making sure you do not place them anywhere where they would interfere with a later deck structure. The best place to support the frame is at either end at the keel and stern as these are most responsible for holding the shape together and without the shape you have no ship. This kit certainly seemed to help with this as it had a considerable larger concentration of bulkheads close to the keel and stern. I decided to still add some dowels to provide some extra lateral rigidity.

Dry fitting the bulkheads showed some were slightly loose and an initial fitting of the false deck showed that when fitted they had to be in very specific locations. I therefore resolved to glue with the false deck on so that they would hopefully dry in a location which would prevent mangling the false deck later on.

Pieces Used
Keel Cut and sanded

Bulkheads 1

Bulkheads 2

Bulkheads 3,Keel  + Plank Termination Platforms


Finally the Walnut Keel was fitted before many dowels were placed in. Now it would be left to hopefully dry over the next 20 hours or so. The next chapter will cover the Second stage of the hull build.