napoleonicfrigates

 

I would recommend that this section is done in two halves. Firstly build the relevant sub components and paint as necessary but do not fit until AFTER you have completed coppering. I followed the instructions and the pressure put on the various pieces by being suspended upside down for long periods did not do them much good.

The Gratings were first up and here, again, I found some difficulties. The kit contains a lot of the sub component to make up the grating and I could not decide which way to build them. Option 1 was to stand them upright and then stagger them. This would have the advantage of making a good glue joint and is approximately the correct height. My problems with this approach was that it did not look real to me and would probably require some dark painting on the lower section to give the impression of lower depth. The other option is to glue them flat next to each other. The plans did not help either way. The first is probably correct but I would leave it to your own judgement here.

Next up the shot garlands which were easily made. Before fitting these I would recommend using a walnut stain (also on the gratings) do not fit them then stain as the stain is very runny and could stain the deck.

The wheel assembly was relatively easy as was the capstan though here note that the dowel you cut is supposed to be recessed into the deck to provide extra support and not to be flat. This bit followed the guide quite happily with the elm tree pumps proving easy enough, The companionway though was a bugger. The problem here is that the wood used is too thin to make a good right angled joint. The easiest approach (and one which I failed to do...) is to add reinforcing strips to the right angles. This gives a better joint and makes it easier to make a stable model that does not get stuck to your fingers. Moving swiftly on ;).

Pin Rails, now it could be me but the pin rails supplied in the kit (80) does not match the total holes requiring pins..86  so I had to order more. Some of the holes in the pre-made rails may also need some widening before inserting the pins. Another tip here is to paint the pin rails before inserting the pins as it is fiddly painting the pins walnut post attachment.

FUTURE TIP - These will appear every now and then and are me, post completion of the model, returning to my original comments to make something useful later clearer ealier - I am glad that made sense. I would recommend all holes are re-drilled before placing the pin rails as you must get the pins sat as deeply as possible in the holes. Later when rigging you will be tying figure of eights which use the top and bottom sections of the pin rail and its hard enough without having to cope with 1 mm of pin available to loop onto mucking up your rigging...

The bowsprit requires you to fit and adjust then fit and adjust. Nothing to heavy. Mast bases require walnut staining before installing and though the plan appears to show 3 ignore that as the kit only supplies 2 for the largest two masts.

The deck cleats and bulwark cleats will eventually be used for rigging and attach to the stern whilst the hull side steps are also fairly logical.

 

When it came to the side fenders and waist side fenders the instructions get less helpful. Firstly the guide says to cut 2*4 mm walnut strip for the waist side fenders but these are not marked on the plans. Their location is there but just as two lines. To confuse matters further their is another vertical line of similar size a bit higher up.. I have still not discovered what the two side fenders are and have had to post on MSW to attempt to find some kind soul to tell me. Presumably they go on the side and that 3rd vertical strip would seem logical but that strip is actually to small to match the width of the kit wood so I have not got a clue.

Next up Coppering, which actually occurs before most of the above pictures..