15 - Chain Plates and Channels
I found the channels glued and pinned relatively easily once I had established a method of gluing the copper rods into the channel (at two or three locations) and then dabbing the ends with some buff paint before pressing onto the hull at the correct location. This then leaves a mark for the drill locations and the rest was relatively easy.
The
chain plate assemblies took more time to get right. I found the best method was
to twist the two ends of the deadeyes whilst the loop was attached with pliers
to get the upper section tight (anything else tended to result in the link
falling away). For the hull connections I would drill 1 hole before pushing the
next pin through to mark the hull where my next drill point would be. Another
thing to remember here is that though the upper hole was fairly consistently
large enough the lower never was and I eventually re-drilled the lower holes to
allow the pin to enter easier and deeper allowing better contact with the wale.
I could then use the middle piece to make the connection.
I was a little confused about the capping as I could not see it
occurring on the plans but
having looked further into it inside the excellent '74 gun ship' soon put my
mind at rest as to what needed to be done.
The wood used for this must be shaped or bent or slightly ! snapped to allow a non-pressurised joint as otherwise your gluing attempts will not work and it is to thin for pinning. If gaps do remain (through over exuberant shaping) then fill with walnut filler before painting over.
FUTURE TIP - These circular blocks later take the majority of the ratline rigging and when placing these a lot of force needs to be exerted to tighten the relevant knots. If these are not attached very securely then you run the risk of the block separating from its holder and then it is not only a bugger to get it back in again it also weakens the joint meaning that your running rigging looks weaker as you cannot tighten properly.
