6 - Building the Hull Part Three
Now the serious hull building
could start. The
Stern counter was fitter onto the stern counter frames and the stern was
sanded down to match the
shape formed by the bulkheads. I was not delighted with my job here. Firstly
when gluing the stern on I did my best to align it centrally but forgot to align
horizontally thus there is a
slight angle that is noticeable through a few angles. Secondly I
reset the forward bulkheads being unhappy with their attachments at this point.
Next up came planking the hull. Now I do not know about most people but the sheer quantity of information that is produced on this subject is phenomenal, confusing and complicated. The problem here is that a new modeller cannot cope with the quantities of data provided and grows rapidly disheartened with all the laws, regulations and instructions provided. Here is actually a case of reading up on the subject hinders. Part of the issue is that all the people producing these guides/books have modelled for years and have forgotten what it is like to start. Fortunately after I ripped off the second two planks I laid (they were not sitting right and would cause problems later on) I found a book written for the beginner! This provided a simple method of attaching planks that did not involve to much detail and provided a method I could actually follow.!
Anyway for the 1st plank after using many battens to split the hull into section and not finding that that made things any easier I used a method from one book to pin the upper section of a plank to the top of the bulkheads. Problems with this method were that I could not drill fast enough to provide holes big enough to fit the plank before the plank dried, plus if the hole was not exact then the pin was unlikely to hold the plank closely to the Frame. Also there is no indication in the plans as to where the planks should actually be taken to. I guessed wrong on the Stern and had to add filler wood on one side.
Side View of Plank with holding pins
Here is where actually doing something actually
showed what the instructions were actually saying. The best method was to follow
the Mastini/ guide plan. Measure out and pin an unformed plank to the hull
underneath the preceding one. Do not pin the stern or bow sections though. Check
the overlap to give you a good idea of the amount of wood that needs removing.
To see the overlap push the plank in one direction and see what covers the one above.. Soak
the planks for around one hour. Once returned using a ruler and sharp knife see
how much of the now sodden plank overlaps the plank above at stern and bow and
cut of the excess. Then bend the bow area using your plank bender whilst you
wait for the wood to dry. Once dry (ish) bevel the upper edge of the plank and
start gluing. Start at the bow as its the most difficult section and drill fresh
holes and glue it in a section at time. If you alternate wood (80%) glue with
super (20%) glue you will find it a lot more manageable. Make certain the plank
sits on the bulkhead otherwise nasty gaps will arise. You must remember that
slight differences are fine as you will be sanding flat but you cannot go more
than 80% of the thickness of a plan otherwise you will sand the plank away
trying to flatten. Once the bow is done move to the middle and then the
stern.
Once the sections have dried recheck that
unexpected gaps have not appeared and do not worry if gaps appear, you can fill
them with filler or splinters of wood later - this layer will not be seen so it
does not matter as long as a strong base is provided for the second layer of
planking.
If you are not happy with a plank pull it off.
Treat this section as less of a master class in wood control than in a method of
learning how to plank where
any mistakes will not be seen in the finished model.
As you complete the planking you will be a lot more confident in your ability to
both manipulate and place the planks. A couple of other points. It is easier to
start planking at the keel than at the top as the woods placement is more
obvi
ous and it fits
nicer together. Secondly let the
stern overhang a
considerable amount
as this stops you misjudging the amount of wood required and if you manage
to snap a piece means you do not have to reshape an entire plank.
When done sand thoroughly as that will clean a lot of the errors. Do not be particularly worried by any thin gaps as this will all be covered later.
Finished Views.
Underside from Stern
Underside from Bow
On Stand From Stern
On Stand From Bow
Side View
Admittedly untidy but smooth so will take the second layer.